Los Angeles has one of the best food scenes in the world. The City of Angels boasts some of the country’s hottest restaurants ranging from Nobu to Spago, but what really makes the food scene so special are the hole in the wall restaurants. It is the mom and pop shops like Sushi Hide, Ramen Nippon, Apple Pan, and Mariscos Jalisco that make the LA food scene go round, influencing the cuisine that makes our food scene so unique. These restaurants have remained hidden, kept secret for the locals and ‘those who know’ to enjoy; which is great, until it's not.
The Covid-19 pandemic has ripped through the world, taking the lives of millions, destroying global economies, and stripping people of their livelihoods. If global economies were literally brought to their knees (import/export coming to a halt, overthrowing of governments, and millions dying), what did municipalities think would happen to America’s small businesses upon announcing closures? Obviously the closures were detrimental to the restaurant industry - as the profit margins are slim as it is - but what was even more detrimental is the government gave little useful aid to small restaurants. Governments ‘asked’ landlords not to enforce rent to the fullest extent, which was not obeyed. The funds that were meant to help small businesses were not allocated effectively, and they did not even use their platform to promote these ‘hole in the wall’s’ and their owners - as evident with the over 80,000 restaurants closing nation-wide during the pandemic. Restaurants like Trois Mec, a small French restaurant headed by Chef Ludo Lefebvre, were forced to shut down due to closures. People like Chef Lefebvre have put their entire lives into their restaurants and are now jobless, forced to fend for themselves. Luckily Lefebvre had built up quite a following and was able to sustain his other restaurant, Petit Trois; but others have not been so lucky. Hole in the wall neighborhood staples such as Sawtelle’s Hurry Curry recently closing its doors, “It is with great sadness that we announce the closing of Hurry Curry of Tokyo after 33 years in business. We have lost our lease and will serve our last meal at the end of February.”
Whilst it does not appear that the government will offer significant help to restaurants any time soon, many of LA’s restaurants have been permitted to reopen. After research I have found that there are a few that are struggling more than others, they have helped shape the LA food scene and their owners care deeply about their businesses. A list of small, family owned and operated restaurants will be posted weekly for your enjoyment and support.
Such a big part of what makes LA the City of Angels is its fantastic food scene, though regulations are expected in uncertain times such as these, our small restaurant owners should not lose their livelihoods over this. Both the city and Angelinos alike need to do a better job in promoting these restaurants, spreading the awareness to expand our palates, enjoy great food, and preserve the livelihoods of chefs and small business owners across LA.
It is sad to see smaller restaurants being forced to close their doors because of city lockdowns during the pandemic. It is especially unfortunate that it happens in L.A. on such a large scale, whereas small restaurants in Texas, for example, where lockdowns have ended much sooner, would have a better chance of survival because they would have been closed down for a shorter amount of time. It was very sad that during the pandemic when these small restaurants could not be fully open, rent continued and probably even increased in some places.
I always think about this being a student at USC. Often when I am driving around the area, I see smaller restaurants and I wonder about how their business has been affected. Especially in the height of the pandemic, I was disappointed to see small restaurants with closed signs on their windows. I definitely think more people should make a conscious effort to not only eat at restaurants that are trendy and cool. This post has served as a reminder that Los Angeles truly has so much to offer in the restaurant scene, and next time I eat out I will try and branch out!
I completely agree with you. Personally, I believe that restaurants were very unequally targeted during the pandemic (this may just be because I am biased as an aspiring restauranteur). Way too many places had to close down, when there was something that could have been done. An example being when restaurants were struggling, some were allowed to operate outdoors, but they were in charge of paying for extra seating for outside, extra heaters in colder areas, and some without patios were still required to stay closed. People get too caught up in the hype of certain restaurants when some of the best food comes from the holes in the wall!
I loved this message, especially being at USC people only like to try the high end "name brand" restaurants, like Nobu, Catch, etc. But when you branch out there is so much out there to try! So many local restraints, my favorites the taco trucks located on so many corners. I think even starting at a small level at USC, creating a club and spreading the news of new local places to try would make a huge difference.